14 Morgan M 489 Liverpool Road London N7 tel: 020 7609 3560 This is good news, that teenagers don't drink excessively? Surely the good news would be that teenagers don't drink at all Well, that's the theory. Alcohol is far too clever and important a substance to waste on those who drink for the sake of drunkenness. If inebriation occurs from time to time, brought about by inexperience or an excess of enthusiasm, fair enough. But embracing it, and embracing it regularly and purposefully, is a sign of foolishness or pathology.
So why wasn't I wholly delighted to hear these words a couple of weeks ago? Because they were spoken by my 15-year-old daughter, Alice, in the course of trying to persuade my wife and me to let her have some friends over for a cocktail party Aha. No one dislikes irresponsible alcohol consumption more than someone who is paid to write about drinking. My friends don't drink excessively." These are reassuring words that you'd be happy to hear from anyone And they gladden my heart especially. The food is every bit as tasteful as the room, thanks to the skills of chef/owner Michel Perraud. Regulars come back for the pan-seared foie gras, pancetta-wrapped monkfish and - especially - the great frites.Fleur de Sel Manley's Hill, Storrington, West Sussex, tel: 01903 742 331 Housed in a 16th-century cottage is a formal fine diner of great finesse and charm. Expect precision cooking: venison and guinea fowl terrine, fillets of John Dory in a wild mushroom and sorrel sauce, and exotic desserts such as carpaccio of mango with orange sauce and almond ice-cream..
These days, he is turning out very 21st-century oven-baked beetroot tarts, pan-fried venison with fondant potatoes and chocolate and ginger tart.Bistro Aix 54 Topsfield Parade, Tottenham Lane, London N8, tel: 020 8340 6346 Opening in Crouch End last year, Bistro Aix quickly established itself as one of north London's favourite dining options. Chef/owner Lynne Sanders may be American, but she cooks with a heavy French accent, having done kitchen time with French chefs such as Alain Ducasse and Jacques Cagna. Manchester born chef/owner Steven Doherty cooked with the great Alain Chapel in Lyon and is a former head chef of Le Gavroche. *14 Morgan M 489 Liverpool Road, London N7, tel: 020 7609 3560. Lunch Wednesday to Friday and Sunday; dinner Tuesday to Saturday. |
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